B16A type-r ?

shy shy pulak...

kemon AKUMA...come down to KL heheheh bring along Mastah Fabrikatooorrr with his Nokia Communicataaahhh with you as well hehhe
 
Basically...for a small engine car, there is some way to increase some torque by using a slimmer casket.so that the compression ratio is higher. of cos, due to the honda car radiator size is relatively,an upgrade of radiator is recommended b4 modifying this casket. FD is only can let u mentally feel the torque is higher...practically it's til the same.But, somehow it does increase your car acceleration.obviously, driver need to change the gear earlier and rapidly than the standard FD.mmm...
 
trd088 said:
Basically...for a small engine car, there is some way to increase some torque by using a slimmer casket.so that the compression ratio is higher. of cos, due to the honda car radiator size is relatively,an upgrade of radiator is recommended b4 modifying this casket. FD is only can let u mentally feel the torque is higher...practically it's til the same.But, somehow it does increase your car acceleration.obviously, driver need to change the gear earlier and rapidly than the standard FD.mmm...
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Yup for the gasket, although the gains would be rather meager as opposed to going for milling and a thin gasket. For me, milling the head is a cheap upgrade option, and can still retain the stock gasket for a better seal. It will limit the use of high RPM + high lift cams combo though (depending on specifications), so depends on how far you want to upgrade your engine, milling the head may or may not be a suitable upgrade.

For stock B16A user suffering from leaking gasket or possibly a warped head, it's a good upgrade to go for, though must remember to degree back the cams.

As for the radiator upgrade.. well, I don't think it's a necessity.. the stock radiator works quite well for normal driving, even if you bump up the compression.. Maybe for track, where you keep high rpms for long, then maybe a good upgrade.. anyway, the stock radiator will spoil soon enough, as the fins get mangled by small stones and stuff, lessening it's cooling efficiency.

As for earlier and rapidly shifting when using gears.. kind of depends on the gear ratio of the individual gears. If the gear ratios are moderately short, using a higher FD will result in needing quicker shifts, if not, then it's actually quite long.. still depend on the individual gears that's tailored for specific rev ranges at specific FDs.

I reread the above part and I think I'm making it too complex, but I think this is the best way I can explain it without diagram and charts. (search the zth forum on gearing calculation I did a while back)
 
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Hey..can somebody list up what to do for light mode in case i want to eat GSR??? heh heh heh..tried before with starlet...side by side only...can standard B16A eat GSR? sound stupid for you guys but not for me which is know nothin about modification. TQ!
 
browsing is the key to gain more knowledge and 1 more thing is u must have some allocation for that mod!!! i think we have been discuss it b4 in this forum!!!
 
avantasia said:
browsing is the key to gain more knowledge and 1 more thing is u must have some allocation for that mod!!! i think we have been discuss it b4 in this forum!!!
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1. knowledge;
2. $$$$$$$$$;
3. time .... to search for the parts miahahahah dun wait until last minute when your engine kong then only kelam kabut to search for the right parts hehehehe
 
budin99 said:
Hey..can somebody list up what to do for light mode in case i want to eat GSR??? heh heh heh..tried before with starlet...side by side only...can standard B16A eat GSR? sound stupid for you guys but not for me which is know nothin about modification. TQ!
Click to expand...

Starlet only side by side? (O_o)
GSR.. can.. if not turbo.. if turbo.. makan asap ler.. esp. if the RS version.
 
Bros...wats the OEM headgasket size?Is it adviseable to use thinner headgasket
with B16b pistons n cams?My engine is loosing compression `coz of worn hdgsket
Any suggestions or recommendations?
Owhh...1 more thing..should i skimmed off a bit on the block?

Thanx a lot,cheers!
 
.oem should be around 0.7Xmm

.u can swap using spoon or mugen thinner head gasket for high compression

.check your engine compression before and after installation

.if the block is warp badly then the milling has to be done once. block milling is the last option to save the block. but then again, its just a worn headgasket so no need to mill.
 
Thanx bro...been longing for replies on this..n
IF i were to use spoon or mugen hdgsket...would i be facing problem of
the piston kissing the valve?(currently using 16b piston n cams minus v/springs)

Any recommendations?
 
user6 said:
Thanx bro...been longing for replies on this..n
IF i were to use spoon or mugen hdgsket...would i be facing problem of
the piston kissing the valve?(currently using 16b piston n cams minus v/springs)

Any recommendations?
Click to expand...

That one I oso dunno, because nobody has ever clayed a b16A with B16b cams and pistons for lift, or did and shared the results.

I plan to, on mine, but that one I'll post when I actually do it.. (O_o)

I think it's around 3mm or so for minimum clearance of piston face and valves... but not sure. Better check magazines or "reputable" websites.

Anyway, you're sure you're losing compression with the h/gasket? It might be the piston rings.. like J101 said.. could be the head got warped, so might need milling.. I milled of mine a bit during conversion, to ensure a tight and leak-less fit.

Rod stretch according to mat salleh should range from 1-2mm depending on max RPM, so piston valve clearance should take that in account.

Mugen h/gasket I think reduces from 1.3/1.5mm(I'll recheck this number later, raining now! I think it's thinner, but not sure.. and I'm talking about the compressed gasket height.. J101 say 0.7, but I remember it's higher, then again, j101 could be right.) to .5mm or less, I think.. but that one dependent on how much your torqued the head. ARP bolt setups I think usually tighter, but not sure, since I didn't manage to measure one that did it, busy with other work as usual.

Some engine builders resurface the pistons valve reliefs for clearance, and probably do it after measuring clearance.

Thin head gasket is so expensive that I think that milling the head + stock gasket is better.. but power increase is so minimal you have to wonder if it's worth the 500+ you're going to spend for a new gasket. I wonder if anybody is willing to spend a couple of hundred for before after dyno to prove me wrong.. :P

JFD! Sounds like what I usually do in the tunnel too.. hahahaha.. enjoying your 304s eh? :P
 
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